Kuppam · Taliparamba · North Malabar
Explore Kannur, from the river.
Rasa Riverside sits in the heart of theyyam country. Within an hour of the house are some of Kerala’s oldest temples, a laterite plateau that flowers after the rains, hill viewpoints, Portuguese forts, a drive-in beach and the best biryani in Malabar.
The season · October to May
See a theyyam
Theyyam is North Malabar’s living ritual. A performer, painted and crowned, becomes the deity for a night, dancing to drums in a village shrine and blessing everyone who comes. Kannur is its heartland.
The season opens in the Malayalam month of Thulam (October–November) and runs until May. Most performances take place in small village shrines (kavu) on dates set by the temple calendar, often through the night.
Our house team hears about local theyyams first. Ask us what is on during your stay, or check the Kerala Tourism theyyam calendar.
Parassinikadavu Muthappan Temple
12 kmThe one place to see theyyam on almost any day of the year, on the banks of the Valapattanam River. Muthappan welcomes everyone without distinction, and every visitor is given tea and boiled green gram.
Vellattam early in the morning and again around 6:30 pm. The full morning Thiruvappana pauses each year from mid-October to late November and returns at the start of December. The temple festival is in early March.
Neeliyar Kottam
12 kmA sacred grove near Mangattuparamba, one of the few kavus where theyyam is performed regularly. Ask us for dates before you go.
Kanhirangad Vaidyanatha Temple
8 kmA Shiva temple close to the house whose festival brings theyyams to the village.
Festival in the Malayalam month of Dhanu (December–January).
Kunnathoor Padi
45 kmA forest shrine in the hills, held to be Muthappan’s home. Its festival is one of the most atmospheric of the season.
Open for the festival in December–January only.
Village kavus near the house
NearbyOn many nights in the season a family shrine within a few kilometres will be performing. These are the most memorable: small, lit by oil lamps, and open to all.
We will tell you which ones are on and how to get there.
Watching a theyyam
- Dress modestly, and leave your footwear outside the shrine.
- Performances often start late and run until dawn. Bring a shawl, water and patience.
- Photography is usually fine from a distance. Never use a flash, and never step into the performance space.
- Offerings are welcome but never expected.
Sacred places
Temples and old shrines
Taliparamba is a temple town. Some of North Malabar’s most important temples are a few minutes from the house.
Many temples ask men to go bare-chested and wear a mundu, and women to wear a saree or churidar. Rules and timings change, so check before you go.
Rajarajeshwara Temple, Taliparamba
3 kmOne of the oldest and most revered Shiva temples in Kerala.
Hindus only. Women may enter only after the evening pooja, around 8 pm.
Trichambaram Sri Krishna Temple
5 kmA Krishna temple known for its spring festival of processions and music.
Festival from about 6 to 20 March.
Madayi Kavu
13 kmThe Thiruvarkadu Bhagavathi temple at the foot of Madayipara, a centre of the theyyam tradition.
Dress code applies.
Madayi Mosque
13 kmOne of the oldest mosques on the Malabar coast, close to the Madayipara plateau.
Annapoorneshwari Temple, Cherukunnu
15 kmA temple to the goddess of food, with a festival around Vishu.
Festival from about 14 April.
Kottiyoor
70 kmA forest temple in the Western Ghats that opens only for its Vaisakha festival, drawing pilgrims from across Kerala.
Late May to June only.
Hills, coast and culture
Must-visit places
Hills and viewpoints
Madayipara
13 kmA laterite plateau that turns purple with flowers after the monsoon. Go at sunrise.
Palakkayam Thattu
30 kmA hilltop meadow with views over the plains, often above the clouds in the morning.
Open 6 am–10 pm. A jeep ride up costs about Rs 200.
Paithalmala
42 kmKannur’s highest peak, a forest trek to grassland at the top.
Ezhimala
25 kmA hill rising straight from the sea, with Naval Academy land at the top.
Some areas need permission.
Pazhassi Dam
45 kmA reservoir and gardens in the foothills.
Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary
60 kmForest on the slopes of the Western Ghats.
Beaches and forts
Payyambalam Beach
25 kmKannur town’s long, wide beach. Best in the evening.
St Angelo Fort
27 kmA Portuguese sea fort built in 1505, above Kannur’s old harbour.
Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach
40 kmA long, firm beach you can drive along.
Dharmadam Island
45 kmA small green island just off the coast.
Permission needed to visit.
Thalassery Fort
48 kmA British fort built in 1708, in the old spice-trading town.
Culture and crafts
Kerala Folklore Academy, Chirakkal
18 kmA museum of theyyam costumes, masks and folk arts. A good start before a night performance.
Arakkal Museum
27 kmThe palace of Kerala’s only Muslim royal family.
10 am–5 pm, closed on Mondays.
Kunhimangalam bronze village
20 kmA village of bronze casters making temple lamps and idols.
Azhikode handloom
22 kmKannur is famous for its handloom. See it on the loom.
Kanhirode Weavers
30 kmOne of the oldest weaving co-operatives in Kerala.
Parassinikadavu Snake Park
12 kmA conservation park beside the Muthappan temple. Good with children.
Vismaya Water Park
12 kmA water park for a day out with children.
Eat like Malabar
What to eat while you are here
North Malabar cooking is its own world, with Arab, Mappila and Hindu kitchens side by side. Try these in town, or ask our cook to make them at the house (meals are charged separately).
Thalassery biryani
Made with fragrant short-grain kaima rice rather than basmati.
Kallummakaya
Mussels, fried or stuffed with spiced rice: a coastal speciality.
Unnakkaya
Ripe banana dumplings filled with sweet egg and coconut.
Pathiri
Thin rice-flour flatbread, best with a meat or fish curry.
For breakfast on a temple morning, the small eateries on the lane to the Parassinikadavu temple serve puttu, appam and strong tea.
We can arrange
Leave the planning to us
A taxi and driver
A local driver who knows the roads, for airport and station pick-ups, temple mornings, theyyam nights and day trips. Tell us your plan and we will book the car. Charged separately.
A photographer or videographer
Want your trip to Kannur documented? We can arrange a photographer or videographer for a family shoot by the river, a celebration or a night at the theyyam. Charged separately.
Your theyyam night
We will find out which kavus are performing during your stay, when to arrive and how to get there, and book a car to take you.
Getting here
How far is everything?
Distances are approximate road distances from the house. Festival dates follow the Malayalam calendar and change every year, and opening times can change, so please check with us before you set out.